Basic Techniques For Removing Red-eye In Photos Using Photoshop Easily – I’m sure everyone is all too familiar with that annoying moment when you take a photo in low light and the subject’s eyes look red. It’s annoying, isn’t it?
In today’s tutorial, you’ll learn how to fix the problem (Red Eye Effect) as we discuss how to remove red eye in Photoshop. Using Photoshop’s Red Eye Tool, it couldn’t be faster and easier to capture the flash that appears in your subject’s eyes! So let’s begin.
Basic Techniques For Removing Red-eye In Photos Using Photoshop Easily
We also made a tutorial on how to change eye color in Photoshop by checking here.
How To Remove Red-eye In Your Photos For Free
“Red-eye” occurs when you take a photo with a flash that accelerates close to the subject or camera lens. This is why it often happens when you photograph someone in low light, such as at night without enough artificial light, or in a room where the lights are off.
Now, when shooting in low light, we have two options for how to light the subject. We can use the flash to illuminate the scene in an unrealistic way, or we can change the camera settings. The first option to choose (for example, for shooting with a direct flash setting or similar) is when we achieve the red-eye effect.
This is because when the light from the flash hits the subject’s eyes, it enters through the pupils and is reflected by the blood vessels behind the retina. In fact, this reflection is what makes the subject appear red-eyed.
So the cause of the reaction may seem complicated, but you’ll be happy to hear that it’s not that hard to suppress, or even avoid it in the first place. And you only have 5 more minutes.
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This guide will first explore how to edit the effect after the photo is taken, and then we’ll discuss some ways you can avoid taking photos where your subject’s eyes look red the first time.
To remove red eye, Photoshop is the best place to go. First you need to start by opening the app.
Once you’ve opened Photoshop, you can go ahead and open the image you plan to work with by clicking File > Open and then selecting the appropriate image from your files.
The Red Eye Tool is located in the toolbar, which should appear on the left side of your screen. From the toolbar, you must first click on the Spot Healing Tool (as shown in the screenshot below).
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Clicking on it will open a menu, from which we will select the Red Eye Tool. It should be at the bottom of the list.
Selecting a tool will cause a new menu to open, which may appear at the top of your screen. From here, you can change the properties of the tool through two different options – ‘Pupil Size’ and ‘Amount Dark’.
It can be changed to any numeric value from 0-100, as it works in percentages.
It is recommended that both of these settings be set to 50%, as these values seem to work well for most images. However, you can play around and tweak it until you get the most realistic look possible.
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Now that we have selected the right tool, we can use it to remove the subject’s red eye.
The easiest way to use this tool is to click once on the red circle covering the eyes.
If you don’t remove all of it, you have to keep doing this until all of the red part of the eye is replaced.
Another simple method, but less time consuming (a few seconds) is what can be done by clicking and dragging to create a square over the eyes. Place this square so that the student is in the middle of it.
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You can release the mouse after creating a square and Photoshop will automatically remove the red eye.
Repeat the process with the other eye until you are satisfied with the result. And now your photo should be red-eye free!
Now that we’ve covered how to fix red-eye in photos, we’re going to look at some ways you can avoid taking photos where your subject has red-eye in the first place.
Although red editing is easy, it makes everything easier if there is no red in the original image, which has not been edited in the first place.
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There are two main types into which we can divide the techniques you can use while shooting to help prevent red-eye, namely: changing your camera settings and panning – or rotating.
To change the lighting of the environment you are photographing, simply add a light, such as a fill light, to make your subject glow. Otherwise, move outside, get some sun, or move to a brighter room.
As we said earlier in the article, the main reason for red-eye in photos is the use of flash. And the main reason we use flash is to try to brighten the image.
Fortunately, there are other techniques you can use to lighten images and combat the effects of low-light environments. Your camera may have options that you can change the values to match the lighting in your area.
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You can change the three exposure factors to make the right adjustments to your camera settings to make your image look better, meaning you can change your settings to brighten the image as an alternative to using flash to do so.
ISO: On your camera, ISO indicates the light sensitivity of the film or image sensor. Changing the ISO on a digital camera makes your sensor more or less sensitive to light – with a higher value making it more sensitive and a lower value making it less sensitive.
ISO settings on modern digital cameras range from 100 to 12,800 or more.
Naturally, increasing the ISO value when taking a photo in low light is expected to make the sensor more sensitive to available light, giving you a sharper and brighter image. This makes it a fair competitor to flash.
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However, increasing the ISO will reduce image quality, resulting in a grainy image, meaning you have to decide between having a noisy image with lots of light or a low quality image.
APERTURE: Your camera’s aperture value determines how much light enters the lens. The aperture itself is an opening inside the lens through which light enters.
The amount you set your aperture on a digital camera will determine the width of that lens’ ‘hole’.
Changing its value allows you to manually select the amount of light that reaches your camera’s sensor. So, while ISO determines the sensor’s sensitivity to light, aperture determines how much light it can let in.
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A lower value such as F/4 is used as a larger aperture, which results in more transparency and lets in more light. So if you’re photographing a subject in a poorly lit area, then a lower aperture lets in as much light as possible, making it a good alternative to flash if you don’t want your subject to see . like red eyes.
SHUTTER SPEED: Shutter speed can be defined as the easiest time at which the shutter opens. In other words, its value determines how long your sensor will appear in the scene you’re capturing.
It is measured in seconds, and you would normally use a value that is a fraction of a second (for example, 1/100). The larger the fraction of a second, the faster the shutter speed – this means that, for example, a value of 1/1600 will open and close the shutter faster than a shutter speed of 1 /5.
When shooting in low light, it’s tempting, and often necessary, to use a very slow shutter speed because it lets in more light. However, it is important to note that for shutter speeds greater than 1/50, you will probably need a tripod or something else to balance and stabilize the camera.
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Without a tripod, long exposures will mean your sensor will pick up movement and light. So if you (the photographer) and your subjects can’t stay still the entire time your shutter is open, you’ll need to balance your camera on a tripod to ensure that no movement can blur your content. . photo.
In summary, resist losing light without
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