How To Enhance Colors In Nature Photos Using Photoshop – Get more details from the sky, enhance lighting, and add stunning definition with blurs and flares! Learn how to give your landscape photos more impact with powerful tools in Adobe Camera RAW and Photoshop.
If you love working with scenes, you’ll love our PRO tutorial on masking light and creating manual HDR. Both of these techniques are perfect for taking your landscape photography to the next level.
How To Enhance Colors In Nature Photos Using Photoshop
Adobe Camera RAW is Adobe’s answer to RAW processing in Photoshop and Lightroom. With it, you have access to all the information in your RAW image to adjust visibility, adjust color, correct lens aberrations.
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Whenever you open a RAW file in Photoshop, Adobe Camera will open the RAW and allow you to make any changes you want before loading it into Photoshop as a layer.
Be sure to select the option to open the image as a Smart Object, as this will allow you to return to Adobe Camera RAW at any time to make any changes you want.
Before diving into Adobe Camera RAW, it’s important to understand the difference between global editing and local editing.
A global edit is any change you make that affects the entire image. So, if you open an image in ACR, and nudge the exposure slider a bit, the overall exposure of the image will increase. Global editing is great for making general adjustments to exposure, color, and fixing common problems like lens distortion or chromatic aberration.
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Location planning is where things get a little interesting. Using tools such as a radial or graduated filter or an adjustment brush, you can select specific parts of the image to apply adjustments. So, if you want to bring out more detail in a very bright sky, you can use an adjustment brush to paint the sky, then make the necessary exposure adjustments. This change will only affect a selected area, in this case the sky, and leave the rest of the image unchanged. Spacing is an important part of the editing process, as it will allow you to dial in the exact look you want, and it also helps separate different parts of the image, allowing the viewer’s eye to focus. Helps straighten.
There’s a reason landscape photography is everywhere. Whether it’s the default desktop wallpaper that came with your computer or the Ansel Adams poster on your high school classroom wall, they play an important role in sharing beautiful places, moments and ideas with the world. are
As photographers and editors, there are some important steps we can take to ensure that the landscape images that come out of our cameras are as stunning as the ones that appeared to our eyes when we were there. .
First, it is important that the exposure is balanced, from bright sky through shadowy ground. Unless you’re shooting after dark, it’s easy to steal the sun, drawing too much attention to the sky and clouds. Using a combination of filters and adjustment brushes, you can reduce the brightness of the sky, leaving darker areas of the ground untouched. If you’re shooting late at night, you may need to turn up the skylight to get more detail in the clouds.
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Next, you want to make sure all the highlights, midtones, and shadows have detail. Darkening the sky a bit will often help bring back some of the brighter details, but you’ll also need to expose some more areas of the world and landscape. This will help restore some of the natural textures and details that might be too dark and muddy out-of-camera.
Finally, try to enhance the natural colors and details in the image through color grading and intensity. Nature is so good at giving us a beautiful palette to work with, all we have to do as editors is make the colors as bright as they are in real life. And once the colors are set, sharpening the image with detail is a great way to draw the viewer’s eye to the most important elements of the image.In this tutorial, I’ll show you how to edit landscape photos. Let me show you my entire workflow. Please watch the video to avoid missing many steps in the writing steps. This is my usual guide, sometimes I may use additional tools and sometimes, I may skip some of these steps. I hope you enjoy it and find it useful.
I use a Sony A1 with a 24-70 G prime lens (at 24mm). I shot at ISO 100 (to reduce noise) at F4 to open the iris and allow for a fast shutter speed. 1/640 shutter speed. I tried to use a fast shutter speed because the helicopter was moving. I shot in RAW, as I always do. Even if you don’t have a RAW file, the process is the same. I’m using Photoshop 2022, but these basic steps will work for any version of Photoshop.
Select File > Open. Because RAW will be opened to ACR, Photoshop’s RAW editor. You can right-click and select Open in Camera Raw for other formats, such as jpg, TIF from Bridge.
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Click through the different profiles and see which one gives you the best starting point. This can change the way profile pictures look a lot. I go more in depth in my Camera RAW tutorial if you’re interested in learning more.
Now is the time to make some fundamental changes. Don’t be fooled by the base panel name. This panel is very powerful.
First, I get the shadows and highlight the details. Don’t worry if this step seems extreme. I was taught how to do this by Thomas Noel (the guy who invented Photoshop and Camera Raw). Thomas, you pushed them to their absolute limit. I don’t always shake them that much, it depends on the photo.
Let’s add some punch to the shadows and highlights by moving the black and whites. This adds to the contrast.
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Add strokes and detail to details with texture and a little dehaze. I rarely use Clarity, because it makes the image look fake to me.
Enable profile correction to reduce lens distortion and vignetting. Here’s my view using the Sony A1 with the 24-70G prime lens.
This opens the image as a smart object. Always use Smart when you can because it saves the image and lets you go back to Camera Raw by double-clicking the icon.
The first pass is for composition and the second is for adding dimension and shape. (If you really want to learn this powerful technique, check out my Dodge and Burn course here)
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Hold down the Alt/Option key and click the icon to create a new layer. This opens up options for new layers.
Switch to Overlay Blend Mode and turn on Fill with Gray. (The gray fill is optional, but I find that I get less banding using a transparent layer).
Use one of these layers to darken and the other to lighten. I was always black first. I don’t have a reason, just how I do it.
If you’re using a pressure-sensitive tablet like a Wacom, click on the folder with the brush,
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If you don’t have a tablet, you can use your mouse, just set the main brightness to 20-30%. If not, keep it at 100% flow rate to 10%. I have a tutorial here on the difference between flow and blur.
With the gray masking burn layer selected, start painting (the video above shows the brush strokes).
Here I have painted in the clouds to darken them. And on the edge, draw the eyes in the picture.
Select another gray layer and use a white brush color. I drew a simple path in the center of the image to simulate sunlight.
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Use a small black brush and start painting in the shadows to darken them. Make sure you reuse (burn) the shadow layer.
Grab a white brush and paint in the highlighted details, you really need to watch the video if you haven’t already, to see it in action, it makes a huge difference.
At that point, go back to Camera Raw and give it some tweaks. I added a bit of contrast and a bit of vibration.
Let’s practice. But instead of using the efficient Unsharp mask, we’ll use the more advanced High Pass Sharpen.
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Adjust the radius to change the amount of sharpening. Try to keep it smooth. Please don’t confuse us (when bright tones turn white because they are too bright). I call it sizzling, and not in a good way.
There are hundreds of things we can do with this image. I created my best training series to cover all of this and more. If you’re serious about Photoshop, check out these 3 tutorials (see reviews, people love it and I don’t think it’s
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