Tips For Retouching Landscape Photos In Photoshop For Enhanced Beauty – You’ve heard it countless times: “You’re in the picture. If you make it well and make it stand out, your picture won’t need editing.”
Editing, it’s best to avoid Rescue Mission editing sessions that try to salvage bad photos. But don’t think it should be changed in landscape photography (or any kind of photography)? This approach will only leave you with a half-sharp image.
Tips For Retouching Landscape Photos In Photoshop For Enhanced Beauty
Below, I’ve shared 10 tips for editing landscape photos, including basic techniques for adjusting tones and colors, as well as advanced tips and tricks like changing skies.
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I used to think RAW shooting was over the top, that it was for snobby elitist photographers with high-end cameras, powerful computers, sophisticated software, and lots of storage space. Then came Adobe Lightroom and RAW processing became even easier. I tried shooting and editing in RAW and saw what a difference it made. There are things I can do with RAW images that I simply cannot do with JPEG.
When you first open a RAW image in an editing program, you may not be impressed – but as long as the exposure is within the histogram range, you have a good file to work with. Of course, you will need to do some editing, but RAW images have a lot of potential for creative editing.
I first learned how to edit RAW images by watching YouTube tutorial videos from Serge Ramelli and Anthony Morganti (still a great way to learn if you’re new to RAW).
One of the first things they teach is the benefits of standard work. I primarily edit with Adobe Lightroom Classic, so most of the references here will be specific to that program, but the basic concepts still apply if you use another editor.
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Each image will be different and require additional adjustments, but here are the initial steps I take for each landscape image in Lightroom:
First, adjust the lens. Be sure to select “Remove Chromatic Aberration” and “Enable Outline Correction”. I set these in the import preset so that the adjustments are automatically applied when the image is imported into Lightroom.
Lightroom detects the lens you used to shoot and applies lens corrections to remove any distortion, vignetting, and chromatic aberration. Consider setting this to the import preset so it will be applied automatically when you first import the image into the program.
You have a basic workflow for converting RAW images. These may not be your final settings, but they will be a good start.
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Open the indicator above the histogram to see if there are white or black clipping areas. Black boxes will appear as blue dots and white boxes will appear in red.
Consider these steps as a starting point for basic RAW processing of any image. Unedited RAW images are often messy and messy, and these initial steps will prepare you for further adjustments.
A good cook, especially when trying out new recipes, will often taste the food being prepared. They use it to determine what food is missing and how to improve it. The same approach can be used when editing landscape photography.
After you’ve made your basic adjustments, try it out – just look – and decide what your photo needs. Is the space too bright? Too dark? Do they need more or less emphasis? Are there interventions that can be cloned? Could a different background help eliminate distractions or focus on the subject? Could the image use a texture boost or roughness?
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Here’s the same photo – but after I finished editing. I darkened and strengthened the sky, adjusted the white balance, selected and strengthened the grain, and increased the saturation of the grass. I also did some additional douching and burning. Below, we will explain how to do some of these!
Also, remember that you can create virtual copies in Lightroom. Start by editing the image – then, if you have second thoughts, make a virtual copy and edit the version separately. Then, you can decide which one you prefer.
So far, I have discussed editing operations that can be applied to any digital image. Let’s move on to specific settings for landscape photography.
Landscape images usually have the ground in the foreground and the sky above. Often, the sky will be much brighter than the ground below, and sometimes
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So that. Before the rise of some editing tools, landscape photographers wore graduated neutral density filters, like the tinted windshield on a car, a GND filter would be darker at the top and lighter at the bottom. Here’s a method to adjust the overall lighting of an evening scene to capture images in:
This method is effective, but it also has some drawbacks. Fixed GND effect so you can’t create different looks while editing. Additionally, the gradient lines are directly on top of each other, so if objects toward the top of the frame (such as trees, mountains, or buildings) move toward the darker parts of the filter, they will also be darker.
Hierarchical filtering tools are included in the software. As long as you remove the highlights from the original rendering, you can use the Graduated Filter tool to darken the sky and lighten the ground individually during editing. Therefore, you can decide the location and intensity of the effects while sitting in front of your computer (instead of live).
I used a Lightroom linear gradient to darken the sky. But they also darken trees and mountain tops – they are not straight lines because they have no straight edges.
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In principle, digital gradient filters have the same limitations as physical filters: the effect is applied to a straight line in the image, and affects objects that extend to the top of the frame. Since then, however, new options have emerged to increase gradient flexibility.
For example, you can now limit where an effect is used by targeting lighting or color range. Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop have these options, and other editing programs often have similar features. The sophisticated program also allows for highly targeted light masks, so you can carefully choose where to apply them.
In fact, the latest features in Lightroom, Adobe Camera Raw (ACR), and Photoshop are simply amazing. Do you need to change the sky without affecting the rest of the space? Just use the “Select Sky” mask in Lightroom (or ACR) and you’ll be amazed at what procedural masks can do.
Sky, work around trees and other objects that may extend into the sky. Then make adjustments as they become effective
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With the latest Lightroom updates, you can select just the sky and then make targeted adjustments that only affect the sky area.
In Lightroom and ACR, you can invert the sky mask to target only the trees and ground. Then add a Luminance Range Mask to selectively change the tree details.
If, on the other hand, you want to highlight the ground without affecting the sky, just use the “Sky Select” mask, invert the selection (the apostrophe key is a shortcut) and – voila! – Select only the soil to edit.
You can make another mask and just work on the front. You can also name your masks to track their location and content.
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Alternatively, if you want to fix something in the image independently, just use the Select Subject Mask option. These new AI features take some practice, but are well worth the effort.
Non-photographers may appreciate a bluebird day when the sky is clear of clouds. Not us! Clouds add interest because a cloudless day doesn’t look good in landscape photos – at least without using it. Now you can simply add your own skies, either from a selection of preset sky images or from skies you’ve saved to your personal collection.
Skylum’s Luminar was one of the first programs to popularize simple sky manipulation capabilities, but it wasn’t long before Adobe added it to Photoshop (and, in my opinion, did a much better job). It’s pretty awesome and basically consists of selecting the sky, hitting OK, and watching the image change. I won’t go into details, but I will just talk about the ethics of change.
Of course, the empty sky in the original footage is a bit plain, and the added clouds look great. But using a preset sky and then adding other things like birds and hot air balloons can quickly label you as a “fake photo”, especially when people start seeing other photographers in their photos using the same sky and effects. use
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Like a landscape photographer, one of the hallmarks of skill and dedication is finding the right scene at the right time, waiting for the right light and weather, and
A picture. On the other hand, if you build a
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